Havana's Columbus Cemetery, Cuba

Cristóbal Colón Necropolis in Havana is known as City of the Dead

Sep 8, 2008

Havana's Columbus Cemetery is one of the largest in the world with over 500 mausoleums, chapels and tombstones. Its memorials tell the story of the people of Havana.

Located in Vedado just south of the Plaza de la Revolution, the City of the Dead (Greek: necropolis) covers 56 hectares and has 20 kilometers of pathways. Its layout is based on the symmetrical plan of Roman military camps, the paths named with letters and numbers.The Spanish architect Calixto de Loira designed the cemetery. It was built between 1871-1886 , when Havana ran out of catacombs. Over a million people have been buried here and the cemetery became a National Monument in 1987.

A Petrified Image of Cuba's Society

The Necropolis documents a century of memorials in as many different styles as the eclectic architecture of the city of Havana. It is a reflection of Cuba's heterogeneous society set in stone. In this world of marble and granite angels, griffins and saints adorn small temples, Egyptian pyramids and mausoleums. Majestic lions sit next to cute pets and cast iron bats - a family motif - decorate the fence around a family vault. It is a destination for curious tourists, mourners and pious pilgrims alike.

Plots Divided by Social Status

Cementerio Colon was originally only open to nobles who placed high value on social status even after their deaths. Cuba's top architects were commissioned to design pantheons, chapels, mausoleums and individual tombs. There are separate areas for non-Catholics, for victims of epidemics and many communities and groups claim their own sub-divisions.

Generals, Revolutionaries and Artists

Next to generals, colonial aristocrats and revolutionaries, intellectuals and artists are buried here. Among them are Alejo Carpentier, Cuba's renowned contemporary novelist, Ibrahim Ferrer, the singer and musician who became famous with the Buena Vista Social Club, Alberto "Korda" Gutierrez (1928-2001), the photographer who took the iconic photo of Che Guevara, Manuel Arteaga y Betancourt (1941-1963), Archbishop of Havana and later a Roman Catholic Cardinal, Jose Raul Capablanca (1988-1942), Cuba's world chess champion and William Alexander Morgan, a US citizen who fought in the Cuban Revolution. There is a also a number of anonymous graves.

The Firemen Monument

The cemetery does reflect the history of the city.The Firemen Monument (Mausoleo de los Bomberos) is a pantheon remembering the victims of an accident in the Isasi hardware store on May 17, 1890. The statue on top of the monument is the highest in the cemetery and was designed by the architects Agustin Querol and Julio Zapata. A contemporary memorial of shiny metal flags honors the students killed during their attack on Batista's Presidential Palace in 1957.

La Milagrosa - The Miraculous One

The most visited grave in Havana's "City of the Dead" is the grave of La Milagrosa, Spanish for "The Miraculous One" at the corners of Calles 3 and F. It is the grave of Amelia Goyre de Hoz, who died on May 3, 1901, while giving birth to a son. The infant, who also died, was buried in the same coffin at the feet of his mother. When the coffin was later opened the baby was supposedly found cradled in her arms. La Milagrosa is revered by Cubans as an unofficial saint, who protects children. Childless women pray to her in hopes of a pregnancy. The grave is always bedecked with flowers and written notes.

The cemetery is open daily 8 A.M. - 5 P.M. The office at the entrance sells a map for US$1. Guided tours are available and tips are appreciated.

The copyright of the article Havana's Columbus Cemetery, Cuba in Cuba Travel is owned by Christine Welter. Permission to republish Havana's Columbus Cemetery, Cuba in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.